[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Carl,

 

Thank you for the suggestion.  However, that car at Hyman was a phaeton convertible, so the top is much larger than my roadster and the cover looks very different.  It may still be useful for making my top.

 

Robert

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Dave,

Thanks for the excellent suggestion.  I contacted George and he will be sending me photos of his convertible top cover shortly.

Robert

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Kirby,

Very helpful.  Thank you!

Robert

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Karl,

Thank you for the suggestion.  That is one potential solution.

Robert

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Tony,

I got a kick out of your suggestion “buy a parts car, take off what you need and go into the parts business”.  I do not have the space or the time to start a chop shop! As we are all aware, Getting rid of everything we don’t need is the hard part.

Robert

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Dear Rob,

 

Sorry to hear you are struggling with the same problem.  I am surprised there are no used rims out there to be had.

With the help of some friends in the restoration business, we are trying to locate someone who will make new rims.  If I manage to find someone, I will tell you.

 

Robert

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jim,
This is a photo of the spring on the hood vent of a ’35

Robert

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Dear Ed and Tony,

 

Thank you for the suggestions.  I am still chasing leads.

 

Robert

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Peter,

 

Thank you for the suggestion.  I did not talk to them about making rims to my specifications.  It’s worth a shot.  I will call them and see what they say.

 

Robert

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Also, to be clear, I need a split rim not a lock ring rim.

Robert

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Dear Bill,

Thank you for the suggestion. I did call and talk to a person at Universal Vintage Tire Co. (owned by Coker). Yes they have 19″ split rims. However, they are too narrow (2.75″-3.3″) compared to our cars’ rims and will not take the proper size tires (700-19; suggested rim width 3.5″/3.75″ – 4″ depending on which tire). The search goes on…

Robert

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Ron,

You mean wire wheels, not wooden spoke wheels right?

 

Robert

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Dear Jane and website committee,

Thank you for your very thorough response to my questions and your tireless hard work to provide us with an outstanding (albeit currently buggy) website.

Robert

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I also attended the presentation yesterday regarding the message board.  Jane, Liz, and Karl did an excellent job presenting the potential new location of the forum on the AACA website as well as the positive and negative aspects of the proposed change.  I am sure the committee did their due diligence and believe this is the best solution for the problem at hand.  Just for my own edification, I am curious about the current problem.  I understand the current plugin is free and thus the software developer is not inclined to make any effort to fix or even investigate our current problem of dropped messages.  My questions are (again simply for my education):

1. Are there any other plugin replacements available that we could potentially use (either free or for pay)?

2. Is there any way we can ascertain if the current glitch in the free software plugin is even fixable?

3. Replacing the dropped messages is very time consuming and labor intensive for our moderators.  Is it reasonable to ask the moderators to continue doing it either indefinitely or until a software fix or replacement occurs (with an unknown time frame)?

These points will help me better understand the options to move forward.

 

Robert

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

<p style=”text-align: center;”>I also get the jittery screen when I first arrive on a new forum topic page both on my MAC and my android phone.</p>
Robert

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I second that motion. Great time, great friends, great sites. Great job John and Susan!

Robert

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Dear Dave and Bill,

I agree about the PASBs. I got the CD with all the old bulletins. I downloaded them to my computer and they are searchable on the PDFs. They have been extremely helpful when working on my car along with this web site and all the great fellow PAS members!

Robert

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Speaking of concern for loosening or removing oil sludge, I heard an interesting story from an older mechanic on how oil changes were done back then (prior to oil filters). For an oil change, the oil pan was dropped, the sludge was scraped out of the pan and then kerosene was poured into the oil filler tube to “clean any out sludge or oil residue in the oil passages”. The oil pan was then put back on and the engine was filled with fresh oil. Can anyone corroborate this as being true?

Robert

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

David,

All good points. I have not found anything on the additive package in VR-1. To deal with the concern for moisture and acid buildup in the oil, I have made it a rule that I always drive my cars at least 1 hour (continuously) to get them up to temperature every time I take one out. I have been assured by many individuals that that should be more than enough time to get my engine up to operating temperature and burn off all acids and moisture. Valvoline has an 800-number tech line. I am tempted to call and ask about this issue. If I do, I will report back.

As for the ZDDP, Two points. First, I agree that our PA engines do not need the ZDDP. Second, I am not in the same quandary as you for your other car. All my post-war collectible cars are pre-catalytic converter. My understanding is that 800ppm is sufficient as an anti-wear agent. However, again that is based on no documented data, just hearsay, but I want to believe them so I am just going along with it.

The other point that has been brought up to me is the fact that the number of miles we put on our cars and thus the limited amount of wear on the engine (as long as we are not talking about running it for only 5-10 minute at a time) along with the improved quality of motor oils in general suggests that we should worry less and enjoy the driving experience more! I try and put on at least 1000 miles per year on each of my cars. That should be a lot of years before I will start wearing out my engine. This might be wishful thinking, but most likely a worn-out engine will be the next caretaker problem. If not, then I guess I will be rebuilding my engine one day.

Yes, we plan on attended the winter meet in Williamsburg. Looking forward to seeing you there.

Robert

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

This is one of these fascinating topics that is filled with old-wives’ tales, myths, voodoo, and some science. I am also not an expert, and I am sure there are others here on the site with more knowledge than I have but I have tried to gather as much information as possible on the topic. I completely agree with Richard’s review of the topic. “Detergent” oils suspend the dirt that can then be trapped in the oil filter. Non-detergent oils “drop” the dirt in the oil pan which needs to then be dropped regularly to remove as he put it the “PA turds”. I am not aware of any source information that demonstrates that detergent oils actually “clean” sludge from an engine. I do agree that the oil pan should be dropped and cleaned when a car is first acquired to start at a baseline and make sure the oil can flow to the oil pump. Also, detergent oils are multi-grade (which I think is a good thing) so cause less wear on the engine at start-up and in different temperatures and conditions. So, I use multi-grade detergent oil in my cars. I agree with the recommendation of using Valvoline VR1. I use the 20W-50 grade.

Robert

[Author]

Posts