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I just went to the website: http://www.worldlicenseplates.com and looked up the Dist. Col. plates for the 1920s & 1930s. Some of the images shown (1924 through 1927) match the plate in the pic.

The 1924 plate was yellow on black. The 1925 plate was white on dark blue. The 1926 plate was black on orange and the 1927 plate was yellow on black. The 1928 plate was black on yellow but had a different letter / number arrangement.

Ergo, the plate shown in the picture was either 1924, 1925 or 1927, so I believe that my brain was correct in thinking the last digit on the plate across the top is 1924.

The plot thickens!

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Wowie-Zowie Ben!

The full size pic on the Florid Region Newsletter has quite a lot of “grain” (for those of us who were brought up before the “pixel” age) so it is difficult to discern the small letters on the top of the License Plate.

The License Plate number is “102” and my brain wants to say that the top of the license plate reads; “Dist. Col. 1924.” I only wish that I could get a good image of the P-A’s radiator mascot, but it blurs against the grey suit of the man directly in line with it. I want to say that it is an eagle of some sort.

The second car in line seems to be a Lincoln, although it is not running a “Weed” style bumper. The headlight surrounds are black, Cadillac? Its License Plate number is 1-148 with the same abbreviations on the top of the plate.

Is this helpful information?

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There were / are two versions of the Helmeted Archer. I believe that the one with the foot dangling was from the 29 and required a raised radiator cap as shown in the EBAY example. I believe that the radiator cap shown on EBAY was correct, even though the seller thought it was a replacement. If it was a replacement, it was a correct replacement.

Regarding the missing foot, I have one where my Plating Guy had his Repair Guy replace the missing half-foot and toes. It can be done and it is not too expensive. The repair is invisible.

All tolled, my archer, purchased, repaired and re-plated cost about what the Archer sold for on EBAY and my arrow is not heading South!

The William C. Williams book, “Motoring Mascots of the World” (page 62) indicates that there were two types, angled foot and dropped foot.

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There is an absolutely BEAUTIFUL MotoMeter Standard on EBAY, eBay item number:231085663906.

It is expensive, but it is out of sight!

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Oh, I forgot to say, you should consult an experienced Moto-Meter EBAY buyer (I am available) as you ned to know that the piece WORKS before you buy a nice looking clunker (experience).

If you want to know the trick, be in touch via telephone.

Some sellers say that they did not test the piece, HA! Likely does’t work or else they don’t know how to boil water!

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If you go on EBAY, be patient and as Greg and others say, the plate is interchangeable.

If the size is a De Luxe, the new ones from Resto Supply are about the same OD (3.5″) but thinner and if nothing else, it will get you through while you hunt on EBAY for an original.

The Resto MOTOMETERS are chrome but the thermometer unscrews, so it could go to nickel easily. Then all you have to do is put in the correct nameplate.

I have one of those Resto jobs and now I NEVER use it because I now have a collection of original Universals and one SUPER-DUPER De Luxe.

The SIZE you want is the biggest issue in finding an excellent piece.

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What do you need to do to it?

Re-plate it, tough to do.

New thermometer? Tougher!

Advise as to the problem and maybe we can help.

Also specify the size (Universal (3″) or Standard / DeLuxe (3.5″).

Often the best thing to do is hang out on EBAY for MONTHS and look for good one at auction.

That stated, good ones are now more difficult to find.

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Good buy David.

I am envious that you have the wall space.

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Paul,

PHEW! Quite a description.

Peter

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Here is the second.

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Here are Roger’s pics.

He apparently has PC problems.

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Ed,

If you want, send me the S/Ns of the cars and I can look them up on the tables I have from Bernie, just to see if they have a PAS history.

BTW, NICE Pierce Ice Chest! Cool find, very cool!

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Jim, Read the NASA piece on locking mechanisms. Interesting, however curious that the tension caused by a locker would disappear when flat. One would think that there is memory in the metal otherwise the locker would remain flat when the nut comes off. I will need to discuss this with my 3rd-year Mechanical Engineering student Son (He knows EVERYTHING – ).

I also understand the concept behind stretching threads as the locking mechanism, I just thought that the lockers enhanced that otherwise, flat washers would do just as well.

Need to meditate on this one.

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I don’t believe that split ring lock washers are supposed to “bite” into the nut, but merely exert tension against the nut so that the threads of the nut exert pressure against the threads of the stud / bolt. That is what keeps things locked. Old split ring washers loose their spring and thus their ability to exert tension against the nut.

If you want washers that “bite” you need STAR washers, most commonly used to insure good electrical contact.

Why split ring lock washers would not be used on aircraft is the CONSTANT vibration and its related stress. The vibration itself would cause nuts and bolts to come undone which is why aircraft bodies are riveted and not bolted. Heck, the vibration of an aircraft causes the metal to rupture. You do not see that on an automobile.

Your other nutty explanation seems reasonable, Cliff.

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Craig is correct, old lock washers tend to be junk!

New stainless rules.

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a third

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Another pic

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I think that this is for a later, as in post 1929 Pierce, but others should comment.

I think the correct piece for an earlier 20s car is as shown in the pic attached (more pics available – contact me) and the mounting is on the right side bottom of the cowl just aft of the engine compartment.

I attached mine by using a combination of tiny screws, (0 X ⅜” SS pan-head slot – contact me for some) and automotive mounting tape. I used a fibre backing behind the cowl into which I screwed the screws. It was not easy to get the backing in place.

That type of plaque comes up on EBAY occasionally and within the past two weeks one sold for about $49.

“

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It is good to double check on double nuts or in your case, the octuple lack thereof.

If the single nut arrangement is consistent throughout the eight locations on your front springs, then it is likely correct, or the idiot who last greased the springs 40-years ago messed up front to rear (although in a consistent fashion).

However, if it will set your mind at ease, correct or otherwise, there seems to be ample thread showing on your U-Bolts to accommodate another nut.

Personally, I would just leave them as they are unless the single nut and locker do not appear to do the job. If that was the case, I would just replace the single nut and washer. Otherwise, they are likely fine.

I will also tell you that I do not have the constitution / disposition /personality to be the owner of a concours anything.

Have fun with the car and have a laugh at Tony Costa’s humor! There is wisdom in that boy.

And by the way, did you ask ANYTHING about greasing the springs, or did that line of discussion just appear?

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Bravo Kerstin, Bravo!

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