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From this

To this

 

And finally, this

 

Heading for upholstery and top in the next couple of weeks

 

 

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I just buffed up the paint. There is some checking but it generally looks good. I like the patina.

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I chime in here. I’m making progress on my 840A.   I have some paint touch up to do before I mount the front bumpers.  Getting closer by the week.

 

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On my ‘34 840A I had a damages gas tank and had to have it repaired.  The picture shows the tank inverted and you can see how it is structured on the inside.  

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I was able to complete a couple of milestones on my ‘34 840A in the last couple of days. With the assistance of my lovely wife I was able to install the newly rebuilt engine and I completed the pin stripping.  (The stripes look yellow in the pics but they are really grey).  She’s beginning to take shape.

 

 

 

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Arnold, i had leaks on my 1931 Model 42 that could not be corrected.  As a result i opted for a new honeycomb radiator.  I worked thru a local radiator expert in Albuquerque who contracted to have one made.  The only place he found that would build the honeycomb core was in England.  Fortunately they had all the specs/dimensions for the Pierce.  The down side was it was very expensive!!!  In retrospect, if i had it to do over again, i think i would probably use a modern core.  Since i am not interested in a concurs car, and i suspect that if i were to sell my car, i would not get any premium $$ because i have a new honeycomb core.  I must stay that it certainly does run cooler!

Good Luck,

Kirby Jefferson

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Thank you Bob, that helps a lot.  Fortunately I do have the forward firewall in my “buckets” of parts.

Kirby

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Kevin, you are correct. I have included pictures of my 1931 Model 42 hood while it was in paint. My 1934 840A has the same hood configuration.

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Kevin, I’m not sure I will answer exactly what you are looking for, but the 2 hood halves slide off the center hood molding.  I have found it easier if I have 3 people to do it.  Here is a picture of just the hood attached to the center hood molding. 

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I have removed the engine from my 1934 840A at it will be off to the rebuilder next week. I now have a firewall question.  According to the wiring diagram for the 840A there is a single coil (unlike my ‘31 Model 42). But looking at the fire wall it appears there is a place to install 2 coils (the upper 2 holes).   I have looked at the distributor and there is only a single pole for the coil (again unlike my Model 42).  Am I misreading something or is there something else that goes into the second hole?  If just one coil, does it go in the L or R hole (when looking forward).    Thanks in advance for your assistance!

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Robert, I have a ‘31 Phaeton with a rear mount spare. Here is a picture if the bracket to hold the spare.  Please let me know if you need anything else. 

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Chuck, the picture is from someone else’s 840A.  I took a bunch of pics of his car as I am reassembling my 840A.  My 840A does not have any holes drilled for the hood mechanism but I do have a pair that has been newly chromed. I am guessing that may have been an option. Just a guess.  I do plan on installing them as it reduces wear on the hood when opened.

 

 

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It has been a while since I posted so I thought I would give a brief update.  There is been little specific progress on the car, but I have been busy organizing and trying to figure out where everything goes.  I was fortunate that an ex member of PAS (Ken Ness) has a 1934 840A convertible coupe about 3 hours from where I live.  Ken was gracious enough to allow me to come a take a bunch of pictures which helped greatly in understanding many of the parts that came with the car.

One of the challenges/opportunities in parts is that in addition to the original engine in the car (completely disassembled) I also received 3 additional (mostly complete) disassembled Seagraves engines.  As a result I have multiples of most everything on the engines (cranks, cams, carbs, distributors, water pumps, oil pumps, etc).   If anyone needs a Seagrave block or head (both 8 sparkplug and 16 sparkplug versions) I have them.

I have begun preping to pull the original engine from the vehicle, and have found a local Machine Shop with experience rebuilding tractor and industrial engines.  They are familiar with babbit bearings and are set up to do the necessary block flush, clean up, machining and honing.  I have the built up connecting rods/pistons already as well as the main bearings.  I expect to have the engine to the machine shop within a month and will really know then if he can begin assembly or if I will need more babbiting work.  Fingers Crossed!

I have been very pleased to see the restoration work that has been undertaken to date.  The frame has been power coated and nearly all of he chrome has been redone. The body paint is generally in excellent condition, but there is some “hanger rash” that I am going to have to address.

Off we go!  I will try to post updates every 4-6 weeks and I sure I will need some advice/guidance and will certainly post those needs as well.

 

 

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Thank you Dave, I had not tried that as I believed it only remembered your username.  Appreciate the clarification.

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I do have one request, could the web site be set up so that one may continuously be logged in?  While logging in each time is not difficult, it is inconvenient.

thanks for considering this.

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Chris,  thank you for your perspective!  As I continue on this path I believe you are absolutely correct.  We are ordering a new core today.  Good luck with your car.

Best to you,
Kirby Jefferson

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Bill, I have a 31 Model 42 Phaeton and purchased an exhaust from Waldrons Exhaust. https://waldronexhaust.com/. I was able to match the length with my old one allowing me to reuse the existing piping.  I found them easy to work with.

Good Luck,

Kirby

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Bill, I have a 31 Model 42 Phaeton and I did remove the gas tank to remove the shroud.  I found that there were nails where the heads only held the shroud in place. I don’t know if that is standard or not.  I suppose if one pulled hard enough one could slide the shroud out but then you would have the problem of getting the shroud back in place and properly captured when you reinstalled it.  Removing the gas tank is a bit tricky but not hard.  You can unbolt the straps which hold the tank in place allowing the tank to sag a bit. That will allow you to get to the vent hose which I needed to remove to maneuver things around the exhaust. Once the vent hose is off, there are “pins” that hold the other ends of the straps in place.  Those can be pulled out and the tank will drop straight down.

Good luck,

Kirby

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Very nice, and congratulations to those responsible.  We are fortunate to have a club so committed to our cars.  Thank you!

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