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Hi Peter,

Thank you for setting up this offer.  I was able to purchase the limit of 3.  They are on there way.   Thanks!

Some positive feedback – I know of at least one NEW member who joined the Pierce-Arrow Society because of this battery deal.   He has had an interest in Pierce-Arrow’s for a long time but was really drawn to join NOW because of the amount of member benefits we offer as an organization.   Thank You!

Ben – from Way Out West.

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Thanks to Greg, Ken and the entire Annual Meet Committee for the hard work in executing a great Annual Meet. Like so many, I had a great time.

Pictures of the meet with the judging results are still coming in and will be posted under activities as soon as possible.

Thanks,

Ben Oakes

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Hi Craig,

Thanks!

Linnea and Kerstin took the 1925 Series 33 EDL to Cruisin’ Grand last Friday. We got a call from the Packard Club and they moved the Packard and Pierce-Arrow night up one week. We were not happy but did have 5 Pierce-Arrows show.

I will see if there are any pictures to post.

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Being followed by Randy in his Series 80.

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On Tour…..

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Leaving for one of the tours.

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At the meet ready for the first tour.

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Explaining all things Pierce-Arrow to the people at the gas station.

A LOT of people walked up asking what year our Model A’s were.

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Checking the map. Don’t want to make that wrong turn….

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Made it to the PAS National Meet.

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Heading down the road……at 42 mph….

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Making the corner in Russel Springs, KY. The Series 80 leading the way.

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The overnight stay in Greensburg, IN. We drove 200 miles that day crossing into Indiana.

By the way, it rained.

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The overnight stay in Russel Springs, KY. It rained, and rained, and rained.

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A lunch stop in Jamestown, KY. A little rain with more to come.

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Preparations starting the first week of May to make the round-tip to the PAS Meet in Angola, IN.

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Hi Scott,

A man of your talents would easily be able to rebuild the power back unit within hours. It’s not that difficult to work on.

I had to work on our 1934 1248A the Spring and Summer of 2018. We lost the throw-out bearing in the Fall of 2017 which proceeded to chewed all the figures of the clutch. I pulled the transmission allowing me to work on both the transmission and the brake unit out of the car. Below are my finds and/or answers to your questions.

Question About when in the life of a car does it typically need service?

Answer

It depends on how you drive the car. If you leave the car in freewheeling often and rely on the brakes, you will wear the clutch of the brake unit more. If you drive with hard stops or ride the brake, you will wear the clutch of the brake unit. The power bake unit is a one clutch regulated unit which is mechanically actuated by the brake pedal. Its acts similar to the clutch for the motor. The

Question The Stewart Warner system of clutches and such must wear out eventually.

Answer

There is only one clutch. The unit rides off the back of the transmission and encases, or submerged, in the same fluid/oil as the transmission. The oil in the transmission flows between the main body and brake unit with no pressure or specific lines. Everything is drilled open holes between the transmission unit and the brake unit case. This allows the clutch to operate as a wet clutch. The clutch disk is designed to wear. Fluid should be changed as the worn particles of the clutch will float within the transmission.

Question Do they go for 50,000 miles? 100,000 miles?

Answer

It depends. The 1934 1248A has been in the Shoberg family since 1946. The clutch disk was replace relined in the mid 1970’s, about 40,000 miles ago, when the motor was rebuilt. After 40 +/- years of driving the lining on our car looks really good. We do not drive with Freewheeling engaged as the mountains in Southern California do not warrant the adventure.

Question And what’s involved in a rebuild?

Answer

Unless the clutch disk is physically damaged or fluid in the transmission has been low, gone, a rebuild would be easy. The worm, that acts to regulate the force or pressure for the throw-out bearing, throw-out bearing, and surfaces are encased in oil. Everything is lubricated. Under normal circumstances, the only area of wear should be the clutch disk. The round disk that pushes against the clutch is made of cast iron. The output shaft the carries everything is on the output bearing, which is bigger than anything Franklin could have dreamed about.

Question Is this a do-it-yourself job (presuming that you can crawl under there and work) or is it a specialized procedure requiring less-than-common tools?

Answer

This is a do-it-yourself job. I got to do it TWICE. If you raise the body you can crawl under the car, disconnect the drive shaft, and pull 6 bolts which hold the outer case/cover. You will want to drain the fluid first. Be mindful, there are two drain plugs. One in the main body of the transmission and on body of the brake unit case. Pull BOTH. Once the cover is off you can see all four moving parts of the unit. Take a picture and proceed to take it apart. Note: The worm actuator only goes on ONE WAY. I out it back opposite of what is should have been and had no brakes. No special tools are required.

Question Are the parts available?

Answer

It depends. It will depend what, if anything, has failed. Being that everything is submerged in oil the life expectancy is longer than normal wear items. The clutch disk can be relined. Also, if something was to happen or go wrong with an item on the unit I am sure this group of Pierce-Arrow enthusiast could help you find what you need.

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Thanks Ed, I will look into it to see what is going on.

Thanks,

Ben

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The best person to answer this question would be Paul Johnson. From what I overheard several years ago was the dealer in New York City commissioned the hood ornament and put them on the cars to show or define what was sold.

Again, this is what I overheard..

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Hello,

Please see updated post in other thread.

Thanks,

Ben Oakes

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