[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Interesting idea. I have a better way…
40 years ago, a company in Calif created a brilliant thread repair tool. One size fits most diameters that you’ll encounter. Unlike a die that cuts away some of the thread, this tool reforms the thread. It’s adjustable for any pitch or diameter, anywhere along the thread. The H&S Threadmaster is +the tool+ you want. Every so often, these show up on eBay. Way back, the tool cost $20, new. A bit more now and hard to find.

Here’s on on eBay, now. It’s been listed for quite a while. https://www.ebay.com/itm/125890577057.

Trust me; it a terrific tool.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Folks,

I am a bit late to the party here. As I joined the PAS after the current site was launched I have no basis for comparison to the retired version.  While I am not a fan of cascading menus, I don’t find the site cumbersome to use,  because after a few visits I learned where I need to go for what I want to see. Even if I haven’t seen the site for some months, I can quickly get to the right section.

Perhaps a way to alleviate the concerns that some folks have with site navigation is to have a top level menu category “My Favorites”  with the ability for the User to tag a page, and even designate a name for a favorite. In this way, each logged-in user could have a short picklist to permit speedy navigation. For guest users, perhaps a top level menu or even a different page version of the site areas that are guest-accessible? It’s a sub-optimal user experience to choose a menu option only to learn that a login is required to see it.

Another thought is to have the ‘member login’ button clearly highlighted on the home page. With a second button that denotes something  like “Guest Login” which isn’t actually a login but displays only pages that are guest accessible, with samples of the pages that are member-only.

I am keen to help kick around ideas to tweak the site, if a small committee is formed.

 

 

 

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

@David – this slow draw business with the glove box light is exactly what clobbered the Optimas I discussed. My go-to chargers are +NoCo Genius+ I have several. These are super versatile as they’ll handle standard lead-acid, AGM and LiFePo4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) types. I’ve had batteries that that were given up for dead, recovered by these chargers. Alas, these Optimas were too far gone for hope of satisfactory revival.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

@George:

I did try the method you suggested and the batteries came up to voltage. In terms of cranking ability, not so much. #history

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

As a point of reference, I recently purchased a ‘41 Cadillac (sorry, my P-A is undergoing open heart surgery) that had two Optimas in parallel. While in transit from Seattle, the transport company left the cut-off switch +ON+ and the glove box door open. The light in the glove box killed the Optimas. I was able to get them to successfully accept a full a charge, but under load, while cranking the engine, they were toast. I put them on a load tester and indeed, even though they came up to resting voltage OK, as starting batteries, they were useless.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

@Kevin Miller

We did preview the car. It presents decently. The interior is reasonably well done, not concours, but decent. The paint is good – at least what we could see if it. The car was very dusty and in a dimly lit garage. There are paint and body workmanship flaws and the fitment of the doors needs attention. I’d give the appearance a generous 7.5. A week of color sanding and polishing would make a big difference. The undercarriage looks decent. Plating is driver quality.

Mechanically, who knows? The car wasn’t in operable condition. So, at the moment this is simply a static display. I am going to wing it and guesstimate that it’ll need at minimum of $10-15K of mechanicals done – they all do, it seems, including carb, starter, distributor generator, regulator, fuel pump, and fuel tank clean and seal. It’ll need a wiring harness. Without running the car down the road, as a surprise package, it’s worth $10K in my very costly and now buried for life experience, on my ‘32. If it was operable and needed only the very basics, including tires, tubes, brakes, perhaps an exhaust system – and +no+ engine work, maybe $22K-ish. If the drivetrain needs substantial work, then $10-12K is absolutely tops. With an overhaul, the buyer would be disastrously upside-down in the car.

I believe it’s now posted for sale in the Emporium.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Dennis and I are gonna take a road trip to check out this car tomorrow – and perhaps another one further away.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hey, that was fun to watch! I want one.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hey Joe,

Looking like good progress, there.

When I dropped the oil pan on my ‘32 there was a fair bit of glop under the baffles; perhaps on your as well? As the baffles are spot welded in, we cut the spot welds, cleaned the pan thoroughly, filled and smoothed the holes from the spot welds and tack-welded the baffles back in. In this way, the next owner can remove the baffles without a lot of drama. Oh, and you may not have noticed, but there are four oil pan bolts slightly longer than the others  those are for the four front holes. On the pan gasket, I coated both sides with Permatex #2, along with the bolt threads and doesn’t leak a drop.  Can’t say that much for other places, but the oil pan is leak-free. The pan gasket from Olson’s has a few of the bolt holes slightly off center. Not a big deal to address while installing

Email me with your email address and I will send you a link to download the parts manuals in PDF format.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Will do,@Dave.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

@Dave:
Two-shoe it is. This’d be a good topic for the PASB, since the procedure hasn’t been covered for over 40 years, now.

Thanks @Tom – the process doesn’t sound too crazy.

@Herb, thanks for the info. That brake manual isn’t available on Amazon at present. There was one on eBay recently; I’ll keep a look out for it.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hi @David White,

Thanks for the tip – super helpful. The 74-5 PASB drawings make all the difference. I guess it’s time to pull the wheels and drums to inspect and see if these are two or three shoe setups. The car stops amazingly well. The handbrake needs adjustment, I think.

I just now note that the little brake inspection covers on the drums are missing on my car. Yet another tell-tale indicator of the prior owner’s +tractor mechanic+ “he can fix anything’” friend having had his hands in there.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

@Bill,

Steer totally clear of UShip; too many amateurs on there. If you have an issue, UShip will tell you to deal with the shipper – they totally absolve themselves of any responsibility. It’s a free-for-all.

I’d suggest sticking with the biggies. I’ve had good success and reasonable rates from Passport Transport. It’s a real company. The few dollars more that you’ll pay with an established transporter is worth the peace of mind.

=Adam=

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Welcome @Joseph. Was watching your car on eBay. Thought about pulling the trigger, but fortunately, you saved me.

It’s a slippery slope – strap yourself in.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hey, thanks, @Don – great to meet you as well. There’s lots more for me to add in posts, although I may save it all for print in The Arrow. It’s been an adventure, for sure.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

@Dave,

Too late 😬. New, proper fit Cotter pins are installed and bent correctly. Previously they were all loose and whoever installed them bent both ends over the same way.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

@Randy – I certainly hope to be at the meet. I should write an article about the adventure – finding the car was the easiest part. Been two months since the car arrived I’ve been on it nearly every night and all weekend for two months solid. So many thing to check, tend to adjust, service. I expected to be ‘done’ at least two weeks ago.

Pretty sure I am close enough to make it to Hershey. My pan was to have 100-150 miles on the car prior to the meet. We’ll see how it goes this week.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

@Herbert Tull,

How about this one from OTC? Is this similar to what you did with the Lisle puller?

https://www.otctools.com/products/pitman-arm-puller

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Oivind – Interesting. Yet another thing to look for/at. Thanks for the photos.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Bill,
I compared your photo to my ‘32 headlight rings. Looks the same.

[Author]

Posts