Back in December Bill Lyons had a post about using brake fluid to soften the rubber holding the vent window glass in its chromed U-channel surround frame.
I am now tackling the same problem to get the surround off to get it replated but so far the brake fluid isn’t having any effect. I am not worried about breaking the glass – it is already toast but I need it to be in not too many pieces so it can be used for the pattern for replacement glass. I am trying to tap it off with a wood block against the edge of the channel and so far barely moved one corner of the straight back piece. I am afraid I will bend them out of shape with too much force. I am now leaving it soaking in break fluid overnight.
I don’t care if the rubber is ruined – it already is – perhaps some other chemical like lacquer thinner will desolve it and let it release?
Any suggestions appreciated.
Sorry the BF isn’t working. I assume you have the glass/frame out of the car. You could try Oil of WIntergreen mixed 1 part oil 3 parts rubbing alcohol. Let it soak a week or so.
Here is a thread
One thing to consider, when you take the upright rear piece off the back of the glass, it’s virtually impossible to pull the glass straight back out, UNLESS you spread the surround slightly up/down and free the bottom of the glass.
Also, if you’re putting new rubber in the outer frame, I’d advise installing it before you send glass frame for plating. You can make adjustments to metal frame before plating, but not after…
Yes, that is my problem. I let the brake fluid soak overnight with no improvement. Then let it sit in lacquer thinner for the day hoping to just dissolve it to some degree. No luck except finally got the back rear piece off. Now I am breaking the glass to remove the rest I am trying to avoid bending the frame too much. I will use an intact frame with glass to create a pattern for the glass and undersize it slightly, and your advice to install the weatherstrip in the outer frame first is good.
Bill I found another youtube on the wintergreen oil probably by the same guy where he did a test of five different solutions over several weeks – ATF, brake fluid, hot water + wintergreen, 3/1 alcohol/wintergreen and 5/1 alcohol/wintergreen. The last was the clear winner. I do have a few original rubber parts (door bumpers) that are in surprisingly good shape that I will do the wintergreen oil treatment to. The Steele repro door bumpers I put on my Packard 30 years ago still look brand new and really scream out they are repro. I think my Pierce originals revitalized will look better without paying Steele’s big prices.
One caution, you can not reverse the softening. If you leave them in too long they can get mushy, which is kind of the point if you are trying to remove them. For reconditioning, I recommend “painting”” the solution on rather than soaking. Paint them a couple of times and wait a couple days to see the results. Repeat as necessary.
Car-Pak made a special tool to remove and install the glass. I have never used it.