Some time ago there was a discussion on adding Pencool to our Radiators. Several replied they used Pencool 3000 and there was at least one for Pencool 2000. From what I read 2000 Is for Diesel engines. Which Is best for our radiators, It appears people have used either one
Good question. Are you using anti-freeze or not? I have been using Pencool 3000 because 2000 says it’s for Diesel engines as you noted. However, now that I have read the fine print, it says 2000 is for “Water Only” systems while 3000 is for systems using glycol coolant. So, I am going to call or email Penray tomorrow and see if I can talk to somebody that can give me an answer. I’ll let you know what I find out.
I have also used Napa Rust inhibitor and Water Pump lubricant which is easier to find.
Some others may chime in.
Robert and David,
As you both likely know, the reason to NOT use regular Ethyl Glycol coolant, at least in unpressurized cooling systems, is because it FOAMS UP and gets sucked out of the radiator, thereby causing both overheating and a series mess.
Perhaps, the newer Pierce-Arrow cars can handle the Ethyl Glycol mixture because you Gents have pressurized systems.
I offer this information for the Greenhorns and not for the Old Hands.
I used both the Pencool and the Napa products with good cooling results and without boil-overs.
I also do a radiator flush every year or so and everything comes out looking clean, mostly clear and without rust.
Thankyou to both of you. I have been using purified water and adding a water pump lube anti rust. It appears that Peenray products are the way to go. I have the 2000, but was concerned that I should be using 3000 because most of the responder’s seem to use 3000. I have good flow Into the radiator, what frustrates me Is when I Idle, waiting to be In a local community parade, I begin to overheat. I have not used the 2000 yet but plan on doing so. I drain the radiator every fall and the water comes out the drain very clear.
Have you pulled your thermostat and tested it in boiling water?
Perhaps that is the cause.
I had an overheating problem in my Series 80 (non-pressurized system) and I recall that pulling and testing the thermostat was one of the routines through which I cycled before attaining success.
Perhaps if the thermostat functions properly, you need a Lower Temperature thermostat, or a Higher Temperature thermostat.
If you use the Stovetop testing method, be sure that you have a kitchen thermometer in the water with the P-A thermostat to determine the temperature at which it opens.
If you test it in the car, the thermometer will still provide useful data, and more data are helpful.
Again, I believe that if your water-pump runs well and not leaking, your radiator is not leaking and everything else (that you can see) seems fine, then you need to test your thermostat to see if it is either Not-Opening, or Not-Closing.
Good luck and keep us posted.
I called Penray and left a message with the question about 2000 or 3000. Their website is pretty specific about 2000 is for plain water systems and 3000 is for systems that use a glycol coolant. It does also mention 2000 is for diesel engines but does not say that it is ONLY for diesel. I’ll let you know as soon as I get a answer.
As far as your cooling issue, is it just when it’s idling? How is it when cruising or particularly pulling a hill. You mention good flow so it is less likely, although not impossible that the system is restricted.
Starting with the easy stuff, the first thing I would look at is if the fan belt is loose or is glazed and slipping. A quick check is if you can turn the fan easily by hand when the engine is stopped, the belt may be slipping. If you press on the belt midway between pulleys it should deflect 1/2 to 3/4″ with a light press. Be careful not to over tighten. Also, are you running it with the timing advanced and is the timing set right? Retarded timing can make it run hot.
After that you’ll have to start looking at problems with the water pump or restrictions in the system.
Thankyou, As soon as I can move my Tractors out of the way, both currently being Battery Charged, I’ll look to see If I even have a Thermostat In the car, I’ll check the belt then I’ll have to buy a timing light.
Does anyone have a suggestion, do I even need a Thermostat, I’m not sure the car left the Factory with one and any suggestions as to what brand of timing light to purchase?
You don’t need a timing light to time it. Check the owner’s manual for the procedure. You can use a 6v test light to tell when the points open.
It’s better for the engine to have a thermostat. If the thermostat is opening correctly, it should not cause overheating. You can test it as Peter mentioned above. If you are seeing good water flow looking through the fill neck the thermostat is most likely opening.
Does the car overheat at anything other than idle?
I need to see a picture of you riding around o a tractor………
Have you ever tried to run a Hot Radiator Flush with your radiator?
In my early days of owning Chauncey, my Series 80, I had cooling problems that I could not solve.
I ran Radiator Flush through it, idled for an hour or so, drained it and refilled with water.
It was better, but not superb.
Before the next driving season, I removed the radiator (not a really big job) and bought 6-gallons of 10-Mol Acetic Acid (vinegar), laid the radiator across two sawhorses, boiled a large pot of water, poured some of it into the bottom radiator pipe (with the top pipe plugged with a rubber bung), added one or two gallons of the Vinegar and let it sit for 30-minutes.
I then bunged the bottom pipe, stood it in end (top up) and pulled the bottom bung and flushed it with warm water.
I repeated the process two more times.
Finally, I flushed it with Cold hose water.
Of course, I was wearing expendable clothes and industrial grade rubber gloves.
That did the trick.
Over the years, the radiator apparently accumulated serious globs of water pump grease at the bottom that wouldn’t completely dissolve through normal running.
Normal hot flushing of the radiator while on the car wouldn’t even touch the grease, let alone dissolve it.
After that intervention, Chauncey ran very Cool and then I acquired a Greaseless Bering water pump, so no more grease accumulation at the bottom of the radiator.
Now, that water pump is out for a rebuild (after 8-years of run time) because it was weeping ever so slightly, and I have a Grease Bearing type holding the water in place. I haven’t driven the car much since I removed the other pump, but I will in the next few weeks.
Just a few thoughts on the matter, even if when you drain your radiator the water “appears” to be clean, you may have accumulated grease in the bottom of your radiator.
Keep us posted!
I spoke with a representative at Penray today about whether to use Pencool 2000 or 3000 in our cars. For our purposes, if you are running straight water, use Pencool 2000. It will provide corrosion protection and lubrication for the water pump. If you are running glycol antifreeze, use Pencool 3000 if you want more corrosion protection and to extend the life of the glycol. There is also a Pencool 4000 for use with the newer long life coolants.
The “for diesel engines” on the 2000 is just referencing it is safe for diesel engines, not that it should be used in diesels and that 3000 should be used in gas. Both are a cooling system additive for engines including car, truck, stationary or marine. These are products primarily for use in fleet applications, but will work in our cars also.