Proper LED Turn signal selector switch and flasher. I purchased a kit from Vintage for my 6V DC positive ground lights and can not get the system to work because its negative ground. The lights work well if directly connected to the battery. I could skip the flasher but i would rather not. Does any one have suggestion for a different option? Please let me now if you have any questions.
What is the wiring going though the flasher? Is it just two wires going from the hot lead through the switch to the turn bulbs? Or does it have more wires and/or a grounded case?
If it is a simple magnetic coil switch polarity shouldn’t matter and perhaps the flasher Is defective. If it is solid state electronics then polarity could matter and it probably makes a difference whether the flasher is between the hot lead and the turn signal switch or if it is between the turn signal switch and the bulbs and has multiple leads.
According to Les Izmoor, simple is better in this application. The relay (flasher unit) is usually labeled “535” and available from $5 to $15 from several sources (NAPA part NF535 for $9.99). Being a simple coil and contact system, polarity should not matter.
I do recommend testing it on the workbench with a 6 volt lantern battery, a switch and a light bulb to verify it will work. the flasher mounts ahead of the switch. Label all the parts and make a wiring diagram for future reference. I keep mine in my Owner’s Manual.
Inside the car, install a 15 amp fuse in the power supply to the flasher to protect the rest of the turn signal wiring if the flasher fails closed. Herb
Thank you for your responses. The positive ground LED lights work fine if I go directly from the negative battery terminal. The lights are single wire so no brakes just turn signals as shown in the diagram below. The LED lights are positive ground as is the car. The kit is shown negative ground unfortunately. The Flasher from the kit is a 535. If I connect it up as shown in the diagram nothing happens. I tried removing the incandescent bulb in turn signal lever. I also added ballast 50W 6 V resistors in parallel to the lights with out success. The lights do work with out the resistor as mentioned above. I am willing to pitch this kit for something else if theres one that would be a better fit. Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
It looks like the 535 flasher is simple thermal relay and is used on a lot of positive ground 6 V. I don’t think the case is grounded, that can be double checked quickly with a continuity or ohmeter going from case to the 3 different leads. The x lead is power in, and I don’t think it cares whether it is + or minus. The X lead will be from battery whether + or -. The L load terminal is to the switch and then the lights. The P lead is “pilot” to the indicator light which may be a clue to the problem. The switch case is required to be grounded which might be the problem. I would try it with the P lead disconnected from the flasher.
Then I would check the flasher. Bypass the switch and connect a turn signal light with the bat connection to the X terminal and the light bulb wire directly to the L terminal. If that doesnt work you can try reversing the flasher terminal connections but I dont think it will make a difference. If that doesn’t work you might have a defective flasher.
Years ago I looked at these aftermarket turn signal kits and was “turned off” by how large clunky, and expensive they are. That big switch needs to be nothing nothing more than a simple double pole double throw toggle switch. I bent up a small aluminum can to cover it and strap it to the column. I added a little LED pea light sticking out of the case for an indicator. Much less obtrusive. You only need a two prong flasher unit.
Just a thought to clarify, the turn signal lights do not come on at all as opposed to coming on but not blinking off?
I think the LEDS can draw so little current they might not heat the flasher enough to disconnect and blink.