Does anyone know where I can find the curb weight of my 31 model 43/sedan? I’m trailer hunting and would appreciate knowing before buying. Thank you!
The 1931 Sales Data Book lists the ’31 Model 43, 5 ps. Sedan at 4868 lbs road ready. With the extra stuff we all carry, I would figure 5000lb.
I purchased a new enclosed trailer last year and did a lot of research on trailers. At an absolute minimum, you need a 9990 lb GVW rated trailer. Many of the enclosed trailers weigh 4000-5000 lbs empty, so add a 5000 lb car to that plus tools, spare tire (s) and whatever else you carry and you can be at the gross rating of the trailer very quickly. Some states require a Class A license to tow a trailer of 10,000 lb GVRW or more, so be aware of that. I got around that problem by having the factory build me a trailer to 12,000 lb (6000 lb axles) specs and rating it at 9990 GVWR. Some companies will do this, some won’t. My all aluminum trailer weighs 4300 lb empty. Mine is 12″ over height for taller cars and 24′ long, so a little extra weight there. An equivalent steel trailer will be 3-500 pounds more. Open trailers are 1500-2500 lbs less depending on construction.
Don’t skimp on tires, if possible, get one with at least 16″ wheels and step up a size from standard if possible. Some people want 3 axles, I have never had problems with two axles. The big thing with tires is to make sure they are in good condition and that they are properly inflated. I check my tires with a gauge (and check lug nut tightness) every time I use the trailer and give the tires a “fist bump” every time I stop on the road.
If you are looking at used, you are kind of stuck with however it was built. Don’t get a 7000 lb GVWR trailer, you will be way overloaded. Make sure it is high enough and long enough for the car and any extra stuff you want to carry.
There are a lot of opinions out there on trailers, so I am sure some others will give their thoughts.
Thank you, I figured around 4500 for the car but needed that sanity check.
I’m not so much a fan for trailering but I was interested in a mobile garage because I have another car stored at a neighbors place while I’m working on the Pierce and my space is still limited. My truck could just legally handle the empty trailer to move it to the house but an upgrade on the axle and tires will be done for the future and I will find someone that could legally pull it if it needs moved when loaded.
Thank you for the weight. Mark
Just to throw out another idea about additional storage for cars, while I currently don’t have the ground space to do it, I would consider buying a used reefer shipping container. Not a standard container, but a reefer such as is used for perishables. They are highly insulated. If the reefer unit is still working on a container, the temperature and humidity could be set for optimal storage conditions. If the unit is shot, it could be replaced with an airconditioner with a heat pump to maintain the proper temperature and humidity. The prices on these units vary widely by area, but they should be cheaper at a port city or large rail hub. The last time I checked you could find one for $3000-$4000 and of course you’d have to pay for delivery. Still cheaper than a metal building tho.
If my HOA would allow a container it would be better, but the trailer is the only legitimate thing I can do. If they complain all I have to do is point out every boat trailer in the development and tell them to hit the road or have hundreds of people forced to move them to a storage area. It would be a losing proposition for them and they would know it…
Just a warning about using a refrigerated shipping container for your Pierce storage. Because of the additional wall thickness due to the insulation, the interior width will be considerably narrower and pulling a big Pierce into one will be a challenge. A standard uninsulated container should work, but the car will cook inside during summer heat unless proper ventilation is provided. I use them for winter storage, and they work very well.